Sunday, September 30, 2012

Highlights

This year has been ripe with sending. Personal projects to undone lines have been getting put down with speed and style which has been inspiring to be a part of. The cumulative psyche has been very high and with actual climbing season finally here I expect big things to come. There are a few hard projects left in the depths of the forest that really hold our interest although there still remains a wealth of untouched rock.

The season started off strong with Levi putting down The Viking project at the Hideout. The dyno version of The Viking still is a project and will likely clock in around v11. Here is Levi coming close on the dyno and a link to Dylan's post with some nice photos and a video of The Viking send. The Viking probably goes around v9.



A couple weeks later Levi and I revisited a project from last year and both sent in one session. I managed the 4th and Levi with the 5th ascent of The Alchemist which is a stellar v9 on the Euro Stone.


After a tour of the Opium Den we quickly realized the potential for a larger concentration of problems that exist there and quickly got to work. One problem in particular caught my eye and after upwards of 8 sessions Levi finally pieced together Cosmic Damage which I returned to roughly a week later and got the 2nd ascent. I think it should be around a v9, maybe harder.



Around the same time of the Opium Den revival we looked at an otherwise forgotten boulder that sits halfway in a creek and immediately saw a number of high quality hard problems. The Nice House boulder is located off Granite Creek shortly after the G+G wall which hangs over the road. Please park off the road completely so as not to get your car totaled by any number of gun toting, redneck bumpkins hauling ass down this dusty road. The boulder currently has two completed lines but holds three more problems that will easily be v10+. Swamp Donkey located on the far right of the block and is a really nice moderate that starts over the water and continues up a sloping rail. We spent a few hours one hot summer day making an actual landing for it and hopefully it will stay through the winter and beyond. In addition to the Nice House boulder there is another nice boulder located to the left once over the river through some thick forest and a couple minutes hike. The Bog boulder is a slightly overhanging face with a couple good warmups and two v6/v7s in the middle. Rhodesian Jungle (probably v8 but now broken v6/7) started left hand on a crimp rail and right hand low but after breakage makes a match possible and the problem a little easier. Poundtown starts right hand in the two finger pocket and continues straight up on small dimples which could use a low start.


After numerous sessions and tons of different beta I finished Swamp Donkey in a surprising one-try effort after deciding not to climb that day.

Lastly, while out shooting, Dylan rediscovered a swath of stone that looks like it will produce some gems. Yesterday, Levi and I put up Haters Gonna Hate, a likely v7, and Dylan got out today to clean up the third ascent. While Dylan slam dunked the the post-crux hold I rattled off some photos.


In between these noteworthy sends this year has been mostly filled with wire brush on granite, tons of hiking to new and old sectors, beer, guns, and finally, development which can be equally as rewarding as sending hard or establishing something new. These sends make the hard work worth all the effort but I really do enjoy a long day of hiking through the woods to stumble upon something like this. Enjoy the next few weeks because Lolo season is rapidly coming to an end so get out and get after it.

3 comments:

  1. Sounds like you boy have been getting after it... A little beta though, the River Block however is actually called "The Nice House," compliments of its finder, Scott Parker. Anyway, good pics.

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  2. Thanks for the update, mang. I know Levi tried finding the name out some time ago but nothing ever came of it. Did you get the FA of Swamp Donkey? and did you surf the rail to the apex of the boulder?

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  3. Yeah, I did get the FA, but unfortunately no, did not follow the rail to the top (I think thats really where it should end). If I remember correctly there was a tree in the way, or else it was just a bitch to clean, or something. It'd be cool if y'all added that on.

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