Tuesday, February 19, 2013

Ripples and Cripples

The first post. There is much to catch up on. Ro bot, Iskra and I were all in Bishop from just before Thanksgiving all the way up the xmass. Bishop is always wonderful, majestic scenery and top-notch people make it one of the most pleasant places to be. I always feel if I've been able to escape the living world, slip through some wormhole in the space-time continuum and visit a piece of extraordinary heaven. This trip was highly anticipated by all members of the crew, including Rocky, ro bots' Yoda dog. Rocky might be the best dog ever....he is extremely obedient, and has been trained not to go onto crashpads or furniture, and loves to play, this dog is just fuckin awesome. 
     There are always goals, if not expectations about how you want to, or are going to climb. I've always had goals. I often aim high, as do my compatriots. When you aim high you are likely to fall far as we all did to some degree. Initially, success was illusive, yet, as we accepted our failure and let go of our expectations we started to have more fun. The hell with the grades or specific problems you want to do. Just go climb and have fun. I find that when I let go of desire for success and completion that things flow and I enjoy the experience more. 
   The end of our trip was the best, the last two weeks really. There was enough time for us to really gel with a fantastic group of people. Upon returning home and reflecting on our interpersonal experiences, I nearly shed tears. Our crew ended up being " The Mantanans". We're a bunch of fucking clowns really. Riding the crest of social acceptability and generally being ridiculous. As is tradition. Bring the Ruckus, what fun is being serious? Stir some people up. Send some ripples. Make people question what fun or funny really is. And be that guy that kicks problem dogs. On that note. Specifically, people should not let their dogs run free in the table lands. Dog parties result in far more impact than climbers and very few climbers are responsible enough to pic up shit. 

Ripples and Cripples-FREEStone-- Here it is folks. This is for the deaf ears that all of my comments fall on!!! Every bit of advice or commentary I have offered has fallen on DEAF ears. I will tell you now that even though our crew is an Esoteric shadow in the climbing community, we give a shit. We care which is why we make NOISE!! I care about the safety and well being of the climbing community. That's why Dean and I have invested hundreds of hours and thousands of dollars replacing anchors and bolts. I don't need any recognition for my deeds, nor do I need to stroke my ego. Clip with confidence my friends, because you can!
   Ro Bot, our friend, Who just go done with a three month bouldering trip decided to pay the Freestone a visit the other day. We have all bouldered extensively, indoors and out. I have not suffered and ankle injury in a long time. Because I/ we take the time to make my landings safe and we SPOT each other. That is how people stay safe. Crevices or edges are the biggest hazards for ankles and should be avoided at all cost specifically in a gym. Well Rob pitches off the top of the concave wall right into a seam that was not covered and BREAKS his ankle. The likelihood of Rob breaking his ankle or even twisting it had he landed on a congruent is slim to none. The Velcro that is supposed to hold the two edges of blue matte together was not fastened. There was no accident report written up, and the employee who was helping Rob had the audacity to ask Rob how the problems were in regard to a previous negative post on this blog. All the while the owner of the gym looked on and didn't even apologize for the gyms negligence. Needless to say our jaws were on the floor. So I headed to the gym last night to investigate and climb. Sure enough, the same seam that Rob broke his ankle in has not been fixed and is still a gaping ankle trap, waiting for another unsuspecting victim. Its like having a hole to twist your ankle in. Not a difficult concept. I was astonished as I watched people narrowly miss the ankle monster. So as a good patron and someone who GIVES A SHIT, I say to the owner, " hey, you guys should really fix that seam, my buddy broke his ankle yesterday" and the response I get, " Oh did he break it?, yeah that'll happen cracks or not". There was no remorse, no, oh yeah we will fix that. GROSS NegliGEnce. I was so astonished by how thoughtless and stupid his comment was I turned around an left. Fix the problems in your gym or people will continue to get hurt? And its your fault!!!

  To all of those who will read this. I'm looking out for the safety of the people who do not recognize these hazards. Its is my duty as a leading member of the climbing community to point out flaws when I see them and call it like it is. I don't care if you don't like me or this blog. Read facts and uncensored media here, Where we care and aren't afraid to be assholes and ruffle some feathers and send some ripples through the pond!!


Monday, February 18, 2013

Tuesday, February 12, 2013

Wednesday, February 6, 2013


I've been doing a lot of reading for school as of late.  A lot of ethical issues and philosophy brought up in the text makes me wonder about issues pertaining to the ultimately frivolous pursuits of climbing on stone.  For instance:  chipping, cutting down trees, blow-torching holds, gluing, secret areas, red tags, real vs. fake.  The very idea that debate arises out topics like this means that, somehow, these are important to us.  Important to the way we carry ourselves in the community of climbers and on the rock.  But why are things like drying holds via blow torch and wire brushing holds important to us?  Is it because ethically we assume that they are good or bad?  Or is it that someone told us that these practices are detrimental to the experience, based on their own experiences?  Either way, we somehow conceive that there are rights and wrongs in the climbing world, no matter how petty and insignificant they seem in the grand scheme of things.

I once, in my youth, called out a fairly well known climber in Montana for gluing holds in a well known area.  Lack of vocabulary and well thought out rebuttals ended poorly on both sides but something from that stuck with me.  Here I was; a passionate, new to the sport idealist wanting to put ethics on the forefront of my climbing pursuits.  A dreamer of sorts.  I was young, however.  The young are impressionable, gullible and have soft skin.  I would know as I still like to think of myself in that category.  But why was I calling out a seasoned veteran and someone I looked up to for doing something that I wasn't familiar with? 

Essentially that question is rhetorical, as the answer is familiarity.  Once you get used to something; being comfortable with a set of ways or circumstances, one doesn't question routine.  When I found out gluing was an actual thing and was in practice at an area I frequented, I was troubled and confused. 

But here is the take home.  Because something is unfamiliar it doesn't mean one should necessarily demonize or shun it.  Nor should they accept or embrace it.  Culture, or "Mother Culture" if I can borrow a Dan Quinn quote, says follow what is familiar, what is acceptable and what is morally sound according to your higher calling.  Fuck gluing or fuck yeah, gluing.  But where did you find find out what was acceptable in life?  Who told you about morality?

What I'm hoping to get out of this post is that just because someone does something different doesn't mean they should be cast away.  Take a step back from how society (or your friend) tells you how to view circumstances and think through it on a personal level.  Does that tree really need to be there?  Maybe it does, maybe it doesn't.  Could that hold feel a little more comforatble?  Sure.  Do those assholes at the lolobouldering blog need to rain shit on Freestone and apparently on everyone else?  Absolutely.

Be an individual for fuck sake.

"And if they hate then let them hate and watch the money pile up"
50 Cent 3.16

Monday, February 4, 2013

Desert Part II and the Trailers

Dean, Levi and I made our way over to the Batholith this past Sunday seeking sun, boulders, beers and not the Super Bowl.  We started off at the Trailers and ended up at the Desert on our way out.  Some photos:

Post 4runner mobbing.  Almost like an atv or motorbike.

Dean on Blood Feather

Dean feeling out the start to Optronic Eye

Deanis soakin' up the sun

More sun soaking

Heart of Darkness

Dean on the FA of a new slab on the Mastadon Boulder

End of the day beta trance

All in all a very good.  Dean got the FA of a slab we cleaned a couple weekends ago.  Levi did the Optronic Eye among others.  I sent Heart of Darkness in a couple tries.  I got some video of Levi on Optronic Eye and Dean got some video of my Heart of Darkness send.  Once I figure out why my iPhone won't be friends with my 6 year old Macbook, a video will be up along with Odenbeck's send from the other weekend.

Until next time we have a newly set 45 wall to session.  Feels like another style after climbing on the 55 for a few months.  Cheers.