Tuesday, February 19, 2013

Ripples and Cripples

The first post. There is much to catch up on. Ro bot, Iskra and I were all in Bishop from just before Thanksgiving all the way up the xmass. Bishop is always wonderful, majestic scenery and top-notch people make it one of the most pleasant places to be. I always feel if I've been able to escape the living world, slip through some wormhole in the space-time continuum and visit a piece of extraordinary heaven. This trip was highly anticipated by all members of the crew, including Rocky, ro bots' Yoda dog. Rocky might be the best dog ever....he is extremely obedient, and has been trained not to go onto crashpads or furniture, and loves to play, this dog is just fuckin awesome. 
     There are always goals, if not expectations about how you want to, or are going to climb. I've always had goals. I often aim high, as do my compatriots. When you aim high you are likely to fall far as we all did to some degree. Initially, success was illusive, yet, as we accepted our failure and let go of our expectations we started to have more fun. The hell with the grades or specific problems you want to do. Just go climb and have fun. I find that when I let go of desire for success and completion that things flow and I enjoy the experience more. 
   The end of our trip was the best, the last two weeks really. There was enough time for us to really gel with a fantastic group of people. Upon returning home and reflecting on our interpersonal experiences, I nearly shed tears. Our crew ended up being " The Mantanans". We're a bunch of fucking clowns really. Riding the crest of social acceptability and generally being ridiculous. As is tradition. Bring the Ruckus, what fun is being serious? Stir some people up. Send some ripples. Make people question what fun or funny really is. And be that guy that kicks problem dogs. On that note. Specifically, people should not let their dogs run free in the table lands. Dog parties result in far more impact than climbers and very few climbers are responsible enough to pic up shit. 

Ripples and Cripples-FREEStone-- Here it is folks. This is for the deaf ears that all of my comments fall on!!! Every bit of advice or commentary I have offered has fallen on DEAF ears. I will tell you now that even though our crew is an Esoteric shadow in the climbing community, we give a shit. We care which is why we make NOISE!! I care about the safety and well being of the climbing community. That's why Dean and I have invested hundreds of hours and thousands of dollars replacing anchors and bolts. I don't need any recognition for my deeds, nor do I need to stroke my ego. Clip with confidence my friends, because you can!
   Ro Bot, our friend, Who just go done with a three month bouldering trip decided to pay the Freestone a visit the other day. We have all bouldered extensively, indoors and out. I have not suffered and ankle injury in a long time. Because I/ we take the time to make my landings safe and we SPOT each other. That is how people stay safe. Crevices or edges are the biggest hazards for ankles and should be avoided at all cost specifically in a gym. Well Rob pitches off the top of the concave wall right into a seam that was not covered and BREAKS his ankle. The likelihood of Rob breaking his ankle or even twisting it had he landed on a congruent is slim to none. The Velcro that is supposed to hold the two edges of blue matte together was not fastened. There was no accident report written up, and the employee who was helping Rob had the audacity to ask Rob how the problems were in regard to a previous negative post on this blog. All the while the owner of the gym looked on and didn't even apologize for the gyms negligence. Needless to say our jaws were on the floor. So I headed to the gym last night to investigate and climb. Sure enough, the same seam that Rob broke his ankle in has not been fixed and is still a gaping ankle trap, waiting for another unsuspecting victim. Its like having a hole to twist your ankle in. Not a difficult concept. I was astonished as I watched people narrowly miss the ankle monster. So as a good patron and someone who GIVES A SHIT, I say to the owner, " hey, you guys should really fix that seam, my buddy broke his ankle yesterday" and the response I get, " Oh did he break it?, yeah that'll happen cracks or not". There was no remorse, no, oh yeah we will fix that. GROSS NegliGEnce. I was so astonished by how thoughtless and stupid his comment was I turned around an left. Fix the problems in your gym or people will continue to get hurt? And its your fault!!!

  To all of those who will read this. I'm looking out for the safety of the people who do not recognize these hazards. Its is my duty as a leading member of the climbing community to point out flaws when I see them and call it like it is. I don't care if you don't like me or this blog. Read facts and uncensored media here, Where we care and aren't afraid to be assholes and ruffle some feathers and send some ripples through the pond!!



  1. Sorry to hear about your friend's ankle, that just sucks. I do feel obligated as a regular patron of Freestone to say something. As far as I can tell, this blog is just a way for you to bash on Freestone and talk about rocks in the woods that are really cool but will never tell anyone about.

    I might not be the best or strongest climber but my opinion is just as valid as yours. Freestone is the only gym in town and serves as an outlet for a lot of people. Sure, it has its faults and may be pricey but it is the only option. So, sit in your tower and say what you will but don't rain on everyone's parade. Someone had to say something.

  2. Thanks for the feedback! This is exactly what we are looking for when we post something like this. As for the contents and purpose of this blog, you nailed it on the head! We tell plenty of people about rocks, but we admire the adventurous spirit who finds their own. We know you aren't the best or strongest climber. We don't claim to be either. I'm not sure how any of that relates to having your own opinion.

    We will sit in our tower and say what we will. You don't have to read this, nor does anyone, but if you decide to read along invest in some umbrellas for your parade.

  3. I can respect your desire to keep rocks/ areas to yourself and maintain Lolo for seclusion and development but why put in all the effort of developing and grading if you are going to be the only ones to ever do it? Agreed, there should be more adventure in climbing these days. But, this gym culture breeds laziness and grade chasing so rarely do you find any sort of adventurous people within it. It is unfair for me to assume that developers will openly tell a group of people that they don't see eye to eye with about their newest, hardest project, but, that only breeds the same attitudes within the gym. My point is if you want to see this community grow beyond Freestone or have any sort of cohesiveness there needs to be some sort of mingling with people in the gym, otherwise this community will stay broken and shitty.

    I could easily be just another anonymous tool that reads the blog void of backbone and opinion, but it is difficult when you are the only person saying anything.

  4. You bring up some valid points. Is the community broken? Or do we just see it as broken? I'm not sure. Either way, if you wanna climb, drink beers and talk about such the invitation is there, just let me know. The blog can only touch on topical issues but I feel as though true conversation can bring great debate and further understanding.