Sunday, March 24, 2013

Panda Party at Lost Horse

 Iskra and I made it out to LoHo today for an afternoon session.  Conditions couldn't be any better - 40 and sunny.  Tried some randoms and familiars.  Almost did a new climb.  Too bad I'm a second string punter.


The Inspectah and Iskra loving up on some Snowbound Proj

I've seen this boulder for 5 years now and we finally climbed on it.  Anyone know if anything has been done on it?  Maybe a V7/8 left arete/face climb and a deep lockoff move on the right.  100 yards before Big Chuck parking, 30 yards up the hill.

Parting shot.

Iskra warming up on Gib Mir Boner

A good day to be outside for sure.  Primetime conditions right now, but all I care about is bumming in the desert and trying to climb hard problems.  Only a few days away. 

An old tmax100 scan of the valley from New Joes.

Tuesday, March 19, 2013

Spring Season and the Year of Projects

  The eagerly anticipated but short spring season for Lolo is almost here. The days are getting longer and the snow is slowly melting. Spring break is rapidly approaching and team Mantana plans to venture to the desert of Utah to rendezvous with a huge crew of colorful people we met in Bishop. Whiskey, beer and exploits will be shared by the fire and shenanigans amongst the rocks. Until either of those arrive, we will be whetting our apetite at Lost Horse and escaping the gray hole briefly. The blue monster has been getting plenty of action as we are all anxious to spend our time outside with friends and in the woods.

  Lost Horse is a distant second to Lolo but remains a great alterative and hosts some classic problems on quality rock. For the truly inspired, there are still next-level projects and untapped stone. Dylan, Dean and I have gotten out to repeat classics, make quick work of personal projects and try out some of the last great undone lines. Dylan posted on his old blog about one project in particular that is very aesthetically pleasing but continues to thwart our efforts. Good progress but still needs some work. The first move is a deadpoint to a small crimp and is hard but not impossible. Here, Scotty tries the desperate first move.

  We have been climbing in the garage quite a bit and it seems like everyone is climbing better than they have before. This coupled with incredibly high psyche and motivation will likely result in trying the projects that seemed doable but distant last year. Last season saw tons of first ascents, development of new areas, redevelopment of existing areas, and countless days of exploration. There aren't as many projects burning in the back of my mind as last year but entire new areas with rock as good as Leavenworth. It is time to invest in a new armada of wire brushes and restock ammo supplies because climbing season is damn near here. Lock and load. Search and destroy.

For a little inspiration, here are videos from Jon Yang last season killing it.