Saturday, April 20, 2013

Lolo & Whiskey

  Been busy and getting after it. Checked out the Starship Project and it still looks hard but there are great problems on the other side. Big Medicine turns out to be a v6 one-move wonder sideways dyno that Dylan and I both did second go. Healing, just to the left of Big Medicine, is a sharp and very worthy v7ish that I managed before my skin completely failed me. The gate remains closed but the temperature is great so we have been motivated.

  Rallied with Brandon and Molly to Whiskey. Brandon repeated Inertia and Molly nearly flashed Tuna Juice. I failed to come through with my part of a team send for the day but it was near perfect otherwise. Joe came over from Bozeman to show us some new problems that were really high quality. 

  Can't remember the names but the left line clocks in around v8 and has spectacular movement. Joe nearly tied it all together but came off the last move. The picture on the right is of a very stretched first move and is nothing but compression to the top. Both are top notch.

Tuesday, April 16, 2013

Spring Lolo Season

Opium Den

Cosmic Damage

Montana Meat Curtains

  Went to the Opium Den Monday and it was prime weather. It was great to yard on Lolo pockets and try the unique hard problems that litter the hillside. Dylan finished up Montana Meat Curtains while I continued to slap the jug. The opening moves are easy but require balance which lead to a large throw up and left to the flat jug. We then went up the hill to Opium Den which was done a few years ago by Nasty Neeley and wasn't repeated until last year. John Yang almost flashed it but ripped one of the crimps on the top off and returned to clean it up. Unfortunately, he couldn't top it out due to snow. Dylan and I sussed it out and made great progress sorting the feet out and trying the crux. Long pulls between jugs and a large move out the horizontal roof lead to small crimps. This is easily one of Lolo's best and hardest. Down the hill lies Cosmic Damage which Dylan tried a few times. A great sustained line straight out a roof with a mono finger lock. Painful for sure but well worth it and is great to watch people rip off of. Shot the 9mm and mobbed through massive mud puddles. Lolo season is here. Go out and get it.

Things to come.

Also realized Dexter is Beaker

Sunday, April 7, 2013

Spring Break in Joe's

  It was a whirlwind trip down and back to Joe's from Missoula over the course of 6 days. Despite the trip being cut short we managed to climb some great problems on great stone and flail on all the rest. The sheer volume of rock is staggering with multitudes of hard problems to throw yourself at and plenty of moderates to make yourself feel better. We thankfully skirted the uber gangbang from Colorado and was relatively quiet after all the Greenies left the first weekend. If you weren't aware, Joe's Valley is Boulder's best climbing area.
  Big props to Fred for taking his daughter down and showing her a world class destination, as well as, Molly and Brandon for showing some kids from the climbing team around. Everyone who started climbing after 20 wishes that they had started younger, so being able to show someone who can't yet drive is invaluable.

  Now to the business. Levi has mentioned this before that with trying harder problems you are more likely to fail, which we did. But, climbing isn't all just going out and climbing hard. Sometimes it is just making progress on a project from years past or reading a problem well and doing it first try. Sometimes it is just being able to step back from the real world that you left and enjoy the company of friends in an isolated place. But sometimes it is just climbing hard.

Dylan making quick work of the world's hardest v5 - Maxipad

Levi and Dylan on the second day of effort and cruising No Substance v9

  I often struggle staying motivated when faced with utter failure. It is especially hard on climbing trips trying to maintain skin, trying everything that looks good, find a problem that seems doable or suits your style, and effectively managing your time there. Thankfully there was sending in between our flail fests and pictures to prove it.

            A nemesis from years ago goes down Boysize v7             Levi flashing Wills a Fire V6

And now for a the failure...

                           Dylan on Eden v9 baking in the sun                    Molly on Resident Evil v10

The Worm Turns v11. With a ghost kneebar it is nowhere even close to v11 but well worth the effort. I want to climb that feature regardless of the grade or beta used. We also renamed it with the new beta Warm Turds

Dylan making mullet wigs looks palatable

Met up with Spenser and Vikki who gracefully brought real booze, fireworks and great company. Enjoy your time there and wish we could have stayed. Great trip.

Send of the trip!

Scuzzlocks from Dylan Chouinard-Peck on Vimeo.